2016波尔多期酒 | 极具生命力的年份乐玉成，期酒报告（上） JS-JSx名庄荟
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文：JS | James Suckling
译：仝喜喜
极具生命力的2016年份
在过去的6天欧罗拉公主 ，我品鉴了400多款葡萄酒，现在我可以确认，与精致的2015年份相比，2016年是个同样卓越的年份。圣爱斯泰夫，梅多克北部产区的葡萄酒更加优质。这些年轻的葡萄酒已经展现出漂亮的水果，清新的酸度和绵长的单宁。 15和16是两个同中求异的年份，16年份相比有略低的酒精度和更高的酸度。如果用一个词来形容16年份，第一个调到我脑海的词便是ENERGY，生命力（直面翻译为能量/动力，这里我更想翻译为生命力）。
After tasting 400 wines in the last six days, I can confirm that 2016 is an exceptional vintage equal to the exquisite 2015. In some regions like St. Estephe and the Northern Medoc, the wines are even better. These young wines already show beautiful fruit, bright acidity and linear tannins. They offer much of the same potential quality as 2015 but in a different profile—energy is the word that comes to mind—with slightly lower alcohols and stronger acidities.
*卡隆世家品鉴
2016年份，JS的第34个波尔多期酒年
大量的盲品工作是在Chateau Senailhac进行的，这里也是我和JamesSuckling.com团队波尔多期酒工作期间的住处。除去在Senailhac的盲品，还参观了50多家酒庄，与许多酿酒师和酒商做访谈。这次的期酒感触很多，细数一下，到现在，我已经品鉴过35个年份的期酒。这意味着我品鉴过的期酒年份比团队中一些人庆祝的生日还多。
I tasted a wide majority of these wines blind at Chateau Senailhac, our home base for the duration of this month-long adventure, with five of my staff from JamesSuckling.com. We have already visited dozens of estates and spoken with numerous winemakers and merchants. It’s funny to think that the 2016 vintage is my 34th vintage tasted from barrel. I’ve tasted barrel samples for more years in Bordeaux than most of my staff have celebrated birthdays.
波尔多大年三部曲
2016年份是个卓越的年份，16年的卓越使得波尔多大年三部曲（2014、2015、2016）正式成立。上次出现大年三部曲还是在20世纪80年代（1988、1989、1990），同是大年，风格迥异。相比20世纪80年代，现在产量基本翻倍。我参与且亲自品鉴过那个年代的期酒，不得不说，今天的波尔多工艺精确，质量更佳。今天的这些人拥有令人难以置信的力量韩国邪恶漫画 ，处理手法高明、熟练、老成。此外，大家步调一致已经从21世纪初流行的过度萃取、夸张风格走出。重大的发展和变革发生在葡萄园与酒庄中，波尔多的酿酒师现在是世界上最精确的一组。或许这便是为什么我在很多款酒评中写道“BEST EVER” “至今最棒的年份”。 不论酒庄大小，这个时代，酿酒师们在酿造最醇的佳酿。
With 2016 being such a wonderful year, the vintage now makes it official: Bordeaux has a trilogy of outstanding vintages (2014, 2015, and 2016). We haven’t seen this since 1988, 1989 and 1990. Nor are the trilogies the same. Grape yields were almost double compared to the late 1980s. Also, I tasted those wines of the 1980s from barrel myself, and I can say that the Bordeaux today is so much better and more precise in just about every sense of the word. They have incredible strength yet so much more finesse and sophistication. Moreover, there’s a concerted effort to move away from the extracted and overblown styles we saw in the early 2000s. So many other things have evolved, too, and from their vineyards to their wineries, Bordeaux winemakers are now some most precise in the world. Maybe that’s why I’ve written “best ever” in so many tasting notes already. In estates big and small, winemakers are making their best wines to date.
“2016年份的葡萄酒是真正的波尔多酒！”拉菲酒庄的总监Christophe Salin呼喊道。“这些酒是世界上任何地方都不能再复制的佳酿。”拉菲酒庄出产的正牌也是今年“WINE OF THE VINTAGE”“年份之酒”的强劲角逐者。
“These 2016s are real Bordeaux!” exclaimed Christophe Salin, the general director of Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) whose 2016 might be the wine of the vintage. “They are wines that can’t be duplicated anywhere in the world.”
PH 3.4-3.7，酒精度低于14%
刚过去的这个大年三部曲是真实存在的。它们口感丰富，富有结构，仍然保持相对较低的酒精度（2016年的很多质量上乘的酒都低于14度酒精度），高集中度和姣好的酸度（PH 3.4-3.7）. 这些数字，代表着生动，充满活力的红葡萄酒，年轻时品鉴通常已具有美好的口感，伴随陈年，会展示出更多惊人品质。
The last three vintages are indeed very real. They shows such richness and structure yet remain relatively low in alcohol (many top 2016s are less than 14 percent alcohol) and high in extract and acidity (pHs from 3.4 to 3.7). These sort of figures夫夫们, particularly in reds, make for vivid, dynamic wines that are beautiful to taste when young and will offer greatness through time.
梅多克北部、波亚克产区
现在来看，我无从判断2015和2016究竟是哪个年份更上乘。侯阁亭 但显而易见的是，梅多克北部、波亚克的2016年份品质更佳卓越。这便是，目前为止最令我兴奋的葡萄酒来自这些产区的原因。例如：拉菲Lafite Rothschild、木桐Mouton Rothschild、靓次伯Lynch Bages、凯隆世家Calon Segur，这些葡萄酒注定要成为当代经典。
Between, 2015 and 2016, I’m not sure which vintage is better at this stage. But a few generalizations do seem apparent to me. Wines from Northern Medoc – from Pauillac – seems superior in 2016. That’s why my most exciting wines so far hail from these appellations. Wines such as the Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild, Lynch-Bages, and Calon-Segur are destined to be modern-day classics.
玛歌产区
玛歌产区同样令人印象深刻，我品鉴了来自：宝玛Palmer、马斯歌Malescot St Exupéry、布朗康田Brane-Cantenac、美人鱼Giscours和度韦Durfort-Vivens的红葡萄酒等很多佳酿，让我折服范门李氏。同名的玛歌酒庄2016年依然很棒，但是对比已经达到极致巅峰的2015年份，恐怕还不在同一水平。我依然记得15年的玛歌期酒品鉴，那是我35年酒评家职业生涯中品尝到的最棒的期酒。
I’m also impressed with the Margaux appellation after tasting monumental reds from Palmer and Malescot St Exupéry and as well as from less-revered names such as Brane-Cantenac, Giscours, and Durfort-Vivens. As for Chateau Margaux itself, it’s again great in 2016 but not on the same level as the sublime 2015, which was one of the greatest barrel samples I have ever tasted in my 35-year career as a critic.
*品鉴到的一款非常出色的酒：盖世龙
波美侯
粘土丘陵上的波美侯产区似乎是今年的大赢家，盖世龙、乐王吉酿造出的红葡萄酒有着极其出色的深度、浓郁度和结构感反猫眼窥镜，巧妙，精细。接下来的十天我将会品尝更多右岸的葡萄酒。
The clay knoll of Pomerol looks to be a big winner – namely from La Conseillante and L’Evangile – producing fantastically deep, dense and structured reds that are impressively agile and stealthy. I’ll be tasting more Right Bank wines over the next 10 days in the region.
采收前的 “救命”雨
2016年的葡萄生长季的独特天气表现，令人印象深刻大砍省 。开花前降水丰沛，9月中旬天气开始变得炎热干燥，这样的天气更像是纳帕山谷而不是波尔多。过去三个月中酿酒师们告诉我，他们担心葡萄酒的平衡性。因为葡萄的生长环境并不舒适，生长周期因一段严重的干旱时期而阻滞。但是后天天气有了变化，雨水来了，葡萄园又焕发出了生命。
The unique weather pattern of the 2016 growing season certainly left its mark. There was lots of moisture before flowering. The weather turned dry and hot until mid-September. It was more like Napa Valley than Bordeaux. Winemakers I spoke to over the last three months were worried that they were in for unbalanced wines. Vines were stressed, and the growth cycle was blocked in some from the severity of the drought. But then the weather changed, the rains came in, and vineyards were refreshed.
部分酒庄没有做到极致的原因
目前观察到的造成消极影响的原因，首先可能是一些葡萄园在干旱过后并没有恢复活力，或是一些酒庄并没有等到雨水降临便已经完成了采收郭毅力 ，特别是白葡萄的采收。有以上情况发生的酒庄生产出的葡萄酒会缺少更具凝聚力的口感，单宁力道的拿捏不当或酸度不够清新。当然，以上情况需要做更多的品鉴才可以更加确认。
The only negative I see for the moment is that some vineyards were not revived. Or some wine producers picked before the rains, particularly whites. So wines from these chateaux may lack a center palate or a backbone of fresh acidity. But I need to taste more to confirm this.
2016年份的姊妹年份们
人们喜欢比较年份差异，似乎很多人都喜欢比较2016年份和10年份。我认为1990或者1986年份和2016年份更加适合一起比较。争论归争论，但我们可以确定的是，2016年一定是一个精彩卓越的波尔多大年，红葡萄酒和白葡萄酒都是如此。波尔多一个重要的酒商公司CVBG的老板说“这一次，波尔多发挥出了水平。”
Everyone likes to compare vintages, and people here seem to enjoy comparing 2016 to 2010.
I think 1990 or 1986 are more apt comparisons with 2016. This is all up for debate. What we know for sure is that 2016 is an outstanding vintage for Bordeaux for both whites and reds. Mathieu Chardonnier, head of the important Bordeaux negociant house of CVBG, put it best. “This is as good as Bordeaux gets.”
作者后记：
2016是新古典主义的年份，似乎让波尔多的风格回到了20世纪80年代。和20世纪90年代与21世纪初期相比，减少萃取，更加自然，尊重葡萄酒本身的面貌。我再次指出这一点，是因为我听到很多人把2016年份和09、10年份相比较，这对我来说没有任何道理可言。2016年份酒精度比09和10年低2%左右，甚至比2015年份还要低0.5%。16年份代表着生动，充满活力的葡萄酒风格。
酒精度越高越好吗？
*JS 品鉴的一些老年分经典波尔多
上周，非常有幸品鉴了1970、61、59、49、47等许多伟大的波尔多老年分佳酿，这些葡萄酒的酒精度在11.5-12.5%之间螺丝刀鸡尾酒 ，如此美妙、自然、展现出别具一格的生命风采。
于我来说，2016年是1990， 2015 是1989年份，是谁说的15年胜过16年千米外，不要愚人自娱了。
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更多JS独家信息，点此关注
文：JS | James Suckling
译：仝喜喜
极具生命力的2016年份
在过去的6天欧罗拉公主 ，我品鉴了400多款葡萄酒，现在我可以确认，与精致的2015年份相比，2016年是个同样卓越的年份。圣爱斯泰夫，梅多克北部产区的葡萄酒更加优质。这些年轻的葡萄酒已经展现出漂亮的水果，清新的酸度和绵长的单宁。 15和16是两个同中求异的年份，16年份相比有略低的酒精度和更高的酸度。如果用一个词来形容16年份，第一个调到我脑海的词便是ENERGY，生命力（直面翻译为能量/动力，这里我更想翻译为生命力）。
After tasting 400 wines in the last six days, I can confirm that 2016 is an exceptional vintage equal to the exquisite 2015. In some regions like St. Estephe and the Northern Medoc, the wines are even better. These young wines already show beautiful fruit, bright acidity and linear tannins. They offer much of the same potential quality as 2015 but in a different profile—energy is the word that comes to mind—with slightly lower alcohols and stronger acidities.
*卡隆世家品鉴
2016年份，JS的第34个波尔多期酒年
大量的盲品工作是在Chateau Senailhac进行的，这里也是我和JamesSuckling.com团队波尔多期酒工作期间的住处。除去在Senailhac的盲品，还参观了50多家酒庄，与许多酿酒师和酒商做访谈。这次的期酒感触很多，细数一下，到现在，我已经品鉴过35个年份的期酒。这意味着我品鉴过的期酒年份比团队中一些人庆祝的生日还多。
I tasted a wide majority of these wines blind at Chateau Senailhac, our home base for the duration of this month-long adventure, with five of my staff from JamesSuckling.com. We have already visited dozens of estates and spoken with numerous winemakers and merchants. It’s funny to think that the 2016 vintage is my 34th vintage tasted from barrel. I’ve tasted barrel samples for more years in Bordeaux than most of my staff have celebrated birthdays.
波尔多大年三部曲
2016年份是个卓越的年份，16年的卓越使得波尔多大年三部曲（2014、2015、2016）正式成立。上次出现大年三部曲还是在20世纪80年代（1988、1989、1990），同是大年，风格迥异。相比20世纪80年代，现在产量基本翻倍。我参与且亲自品鉴过那个年代的期酒，不得不说，今天的波尔多工艺精确，质量更佳。今天的这些人拥有令人难以置信的力量韩国邪恶漫画 ，处理手法高明、熟练、老成。此外，大家步调一致已经从21世纪初流行的过度萃取、夸张风格走出。重大的发展和变革发生在葡萄园与酒庄中，波尔多的酿酒师现在是世界上最精确的一组。或许这便是为什么我在很多款酒评中写道“BEST EVER” “至今最棒的年份”。 不论酒庄大小，这个时代，酿酒师们在酿造最醇的佳酿。
With 2016 being such a wonderful year, the vintage now makes it official: Bordeaux has a trilogy of outstanding vintages (2014, 2015, and 2016). We haven’t seen this since 1988, 1989 and 1990. Nor are the trilogies the same. Grape yields were almost double compared to the late 1980s. Also, I tasted those wines of the 1980s from barrel myself, and I can say that the Bordeaux today is so much better and more precise in just about every sense of the word. They have incredible strength yet so much more finesse and sophistication. Moreover, there’s a concerted effort to move away from the extracted and overblown styles we saw in the early 2000s. So many other things have evolved, too, and from their vineyards to their wineries, Bordeaux winemakers are now some most precise in the world. Maybe that’s why I’ve written “best ever” in so many tasting notes already. In estates big and small, winemakers are making their best wines to date.
“2016年份的葡萄酒是真正的波尔多酒！”拉菲酒庄的总监Christophe Salin呼喊道。“这些酒是世界上任何地方都不能再复制的佳酿。”拉菲酒庄出产的正牌也是今年“WINE OF THE VINTAGE”“年份之酒”的强劲角逐者。
“These 2016s are real Bordeaux!” exclaimed Christophe Salin, the general director of Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) whose 2016 might be the wine of the vintage. “They are wines that can’t be duplicated anywhere in the world.”
PH 3.4-3.7，酒精度低于14%
刚过去的这个大年三部曲是真实存在的。它们口感丰富，富有结构，仍然保持相对较低的酒精度（2016年的很多质量上乘的酒都低于14度酒精度），高集中度和姣好的酸度（PH 3.4-3.7）. 这些数字，代表着生动，充满活力的红葡萄酒，年轻时品鉴通常已具有美好的口感，伴随陈年，会展示出更多惊人品质。
The last three vintages are indeed very real. They shows such richness and structure yet remain relatively low in alcohol (many top 2016s are less than 14 percent alcohol) and high in extract and acidity (pHs from 3.4 to 3.7). These sort of figures夫夫们, particularly in reds, make for vivid, dynamic wines that are beautiful to taste when young and will offer greatness through time.
梅多克北部、波亚克产区
现在来看，我无从判断2015和2016究竟是哪个年份更上乘。侯阁亭 但显而易见的是，梅多克北部、波亚克的2016年份品质更佳卓越。这便是，目前为止最令我兴奋的葡萄酒来自这些产区的原因。例如：拉菲Lafite Rothschild、木桐Mouton Rothschild、靓次伯Lynch Bages、凯隆世家Calon Segur，这些葡萄酒注定要成为当代经典。
Between, 2015 and 2016, I’m not sure which vintage is better at this stage. But a few generalizations do seem apparent to me. Wines from Northern Medoc – from Pauillac – seems superior in 2016. That’s why my most exciting wines so far hail from these appellations. Wines such as the Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild, Lynch-Bages, and Calon-Segur are destined to be modern-day classics.
玛歌产区
玛歌产区同样令人印象深刻，我品鉴了来自：宝玛Palmer、马斯歌Malescot St Exupéry、布朗康田Brane-Cantenac、美人鱼Giscours和度韦Durfort-Vivens的红葡萄酒等很多佳酿，让我折服范门李氏。同名的玛歌酒庄2016年依然很棒，但是对比已经达到极致巅峰的2015年份，恐怕还不在同一水平。我依然记得15年的玛歌期酒品鉴，那是我35年酒评家职业生涯中品尝到的最棒的期酒。
I’m also impressed with the Margaux appellation after tasting monumental reds from Palmer and Malescot St Exupéry and as well as from less-revered names such as Brane-Cantenac, Giscours, and Durfort-Vivens. As for Chateau Margaux itself, it’s again great in 2016 but not on the same level as the sublime 2015, which was one of the greatest barrel samples I have ever tasted in my 35-year career as a critic.
*品鉴到的一款非常出色的酒：盖世龙
波美侯
粘土丘陵上的波美侯产区似乎是今年的大赢家，盖世龙、乐王吉酿造出的红葡萄酒有着极其出色的深度、浓郁度和结构感反猫眼窥镜，巧妙，精细。接下来的十天我将会品尝更多右岸的葡萄酒。
The clay knoll of Pomerol looks to be a big winner – namely from La Conseillante and L’Evangile – producing fantastically deep, dense and structured reds that are impressively agile and stealthy. I’ll be tasting more Right Bank wines over the next 10 days in the region.
采收前的 “救命”雨
2016年的葡萄生长季的独特天气表现，令人印象深刻大砍省 。开花前降水丰沛，9月中旬天气开始变得炎热干燥，这样的天气更像是纳帕山谷而不是波尔多。过去三个月中酿酒师们告诉我，他们担心葡萄酒的平衡性。因为葡萄的生长环境并不舒适，生长周期因一段严重的干旱时期而阻滞。但是后天天气有了变化，雨水来了，葡萄园又焕发出了生命。
The unique weather pattern of the 2016 growing season certainly left its mark. There was lots of moisture before flowering. The weather turned dry and hot until mid-September. It was more like Napa Valley than Bordeaux. Winemakers I spoke to over the last three months were worried that they were in for unbalanced wines. Vines were stressed, and the growth cycle was blocked in some from the severity of the drought. But then the weather changed, the rains came in, and vineyards were refreshed.
部分酒庄没有做到极致的原因
目前观察到的造成消极影响的原因，首先可能是一些葡萄园在干旱过后并没有恢复活力，或是一些酒庄并没有等到雨水降临便已经完成了采收郭毅力 ，特别是白葡萄的采收。有以上情况发生的酒庄生产出的葡萄酒会缺少更具凝聚力的口感，单宁力道的拿捏不当或酸度不够清新。当然，以上情况需要做更多的品鉴才可以更加确认。
The only negative I see for the moment is that some vineyards were not revived. Or some wine producers picked before the rains, particularly whites. So wines from these chateaux may lack a center palate or a backbone of fresh acidity. But I need to taste more to confirm this.
2016年份的姊妹年份们
人们喜欢比较年份差异，似乎很多人都喜欢比较2016年份和10年份。我认为1990或者1986年份和2016年份更加适合一起比较。争论归争论，但我们可以确定的是，2016年一定是一个精彩卓越的波尔多大年，红葡萄酒和白葡萄酒都是如此。波尔多一个重要的酒商公司CVBG的老板说“这一次，波尔多发挥出了水平。”
Everyone likes to compare vintages, and people here seem to enjoy comparing 2016 to 2010.
I think 1990 or 1986 are more apt comparisons with 2016. This is all up for debate. What we know for sure is that 2016 is an outstanding vintage for Bordeaux for both whites and reds. Mathieu Chardonnier, head of the important Bordeaux negociant house of CVBG, put it best. “This is as good as Bordeaux gets.”
作者后记：
2016是新古典主义的年份，似乎让波尔多的风格回到了20世纪80年代。和20世纪90年代与21世纪初期相比，减少萃取，更加自然，尊重葡萄酒本身的面貌。我再次指出这一点，是因为我听到很多人把2016年份和09、10年份相比较，这对我来说没有任何道理可言。2016年份酒精度比09和10年低2%左右，甚至比2015年份还要低0.5%。16年份代表着生动，充满活力的葡萄酒风格。
酒精度越高越好吗？
*JS 品鉴的一些老年分经典波尔多
上周，非常有幸品鉴了1970、61、59、49、47等许多伟大的波尔多老年分佳酿，这些葡萄酒的酒精度在11.5-12.5%之间螺丝刀鸡尾酒 ，如此美妙、自然、展现出别具一格的生命风采。
于我来说，2016年是1990， 2015 是1989年份，是谁说的15年胜过16年千米外，不要愚人自娱了。
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